Towerguys World Tour

[G-HEVN]

Gripping, edge of the seat stuff!


Have you grown, or has that Baron shrunk? In your walkaround, it looks to be about the size of a Warrior...

[ardypilot]

This storyline is fantastic- far more compelling that just about everything else I have read over the last year or so! Keep it up TG!

[towerguy]

Have you grown, or has that Baron shrunk? In your walkaround, it looks to be about the size of a Warrior...

nah just standing on a box looking at the top panels and the camera angle makes it look different

[towerguy]

I'm not sure what it was that woke me this morning. The smell of breakfast cooking, the laughter coming from downstairs or the godawful smell of the loo along the hall. Rolling over I checked my flightbag was still by the bed. Yep - the problem is still there. Using a wash cloth I tried to clean off but judging from the trickle of foul smelling brown liquid that came from the tap I wasn't sure if I was cleaning off or wiping dirt on. Grabbing my gear I headed downstairs. The two small rooms did service as reception, dining and also kitchen and owners bedroom. Half a dozen Africans sat about in various states of undress eating breakfast and having a high old time laughing and joking among themselves. The rapid fire chatter and laughter was pretty infectious and I couldn't help but grin myself, even though I understood not a word. Dropping a couple of bills on the counter I passed on the breakfast but asked if a ride to the airport was available somehow. One of the revellers yelled something and a small kid shot out the front door and dissappeared up the road. " It be soon". It seems there are only two times in central Africa - 'soon' or 'later' and these can mean anything from 'the next few minutes' to 'the next few weeks'.
About half an hour later a mobile autowreck appeared out the front. I assumed that was my ride.
Once at the airport again I hunted down the refueller and arranged to get 'Golf Yankee' topped up. Leaving him to get on with it I wandered over to try and get some weathers and file VFR through to Kampala.
As I arrived back at the aircraft I pulled up short and stayed well back shaking my head in amazement. One tall skinny african wearing only shorts and a t-shirt standing on a wooden crate pouring the last of a pile of 10 gallon steel jerrycans into a tin funnel jammed into the open fuel ports. No strainers and no sign of a static earth wire or anything. "All number 1 okay bwana" he called and proceeded to jump down and throw the empty cans into the back of a rusted out hilux. I paid him using some of my hoarded cash. I didn't want anyone tracking the use of the carnet just yet. I didn't know if they could or not, but no point making it easy. Just because you're paranoid doesn't mean they're not out to get you! I finished up with the refueller and then set about an ever so thorough fuel drain and check of the aircraft. All seemed okay so I kicked the tires, lit the fires and headed off.



Climbing out to the north initially to get above the cloud layer before heading back to the east I relaxed and decided to enjoy the day. This whole business had got way out of hand and there was nothing I could do about it now. The ball had been set rolling by arranging to contact Steve, several other things I had set up would be getting under way with the opening of business in various locations and I had to be in Nairobi in two days to meet Julie off the BA flight from London. Then we had 2 weeks of holiday, touring and visiting friends around Kenya to look forward to. I had put the stones back in the wheelwell and decided to just leave them there. If they were found then I'd just plead ignorance and hope for the best. Tony or someone, I was sure, would try to retrieve them but probably not before I had left Africa. So my best guess was either Aden or Muscat which were on my original planned itinerary. After that I would be heading away from Europe fairly quickly and I didn't think he'd be wanting to have to chase me too far before getting his investment back.
Especially if he was to avoid having them discovered by some overzealous customs official.
Levelling at 9500ft I had clearance through controlled airspace VFR on top but there wasn't much in the way of traffic so the radio was pretty quiet. I still had a reasonable view even though the cloud had built into a scattered to broken layer and the tops were fairly flat at about 8500ft.



With this being the rainy season everything down below looks very green and the river is in full flow. The cloud tops out in the distance ahead were beginning to show the first stirrings of vertical development that would grow with the day into the usual towering Cu and bring the typical tropical afternoon thunderstorms. For now though I had only to climb to 10500ft to stay comfortably on top, but I kept a good eye on the gaps, there is high terrain ahead.
About lunchtime, with the hot sun blazing high in the clear azure sky I headed down. the tops were rapidly developing and I wanted to pick my gap now without pressure.



Choosing a decent opening that presented itself almost along track I descended initially to 7500ft but had to keep going down to 5500ft to get below the ceiling. Not too troubling except for the fact that the landscape was gradually climbing upward from the Congo basin to greet me as it climbed to form the ranges along the Zaire( Congo) Ugandan border.



This put me quite low atop the forest. Not my favourite place after the Niger delta incident, especially considering what had taken place and still was taking place below those very trees. Zaire forces fighting rebels, with both sides being backed by conglomerations of other states and other rebel factions, and other states acting as 'peacekeepers' but actually unofficial invaders, and the whole lot of them sporadically erupting into outright warfare. Some observers have labelled it the continents first 'world war' and some estimates put the casualty toll around 2.5 - 3 million. And still they go on!
Needless to say I'm not going too low and I'm changing heading randomly and frequently.



My first waypoint was near the town of Beni located at the base of Mt Stanley.



Topping over 15,000ft, its mist shrouded slopes disappeared above me into the clouds.



Fortunately it is an easy detour around to the south over Lake Edward and into Uganda.



Across the lake to the south east is the Queen Elizabeth National park and further south beyond that is the 'Bwindi Impenetrable National Park'. It is there that you can go tracking the famous 'Mountain Gorillas'.



Heading further east there are plenty of Wildlife reserves but the numbers of game are only just re-establishing after being nearly wiped out by military action during the fighting. Today Uganda is doing a great job reintroducing and enforcing conservation measures to restock. Its amazing what the tourist dollar can do!
Nearing Kampalas Entebbe Airport, I was racing a line of cells approaching across Lake Victoria from the east.



A great display of Natures pyrotechnics in the showery haze over the water. With little traffic I got a clearance to join direct on a right base for rwy17. Slowing up I ran through my checklists and almost before I knew it, was on the ground and taxiing for the ramp.



Quickly securing the aircraft I was in the terminal and chatting with customs before the heavens opened. Altogether it was a very pleasant leg. Lots to do, some hard work to keep me honest, great scenery and a dry ending. I felt happy for the first time in a few weeks.





This leg 431.2nm 3.1 hrs
Totals 14982.0nm 102.9 hrs

[Alex]

Great to have seen this leg of your journey, another excellent report.

Alex

[Florian_S]

I bet you can't wait to get away from all that civil unrest!!

Great story once more!!

[towerguy]

Today was an interesting leg to say the least, and very wet! I juggled refuelling and preflight between showers but the humidity managed to achieve what the rains didn't - another soaking wet start.
Although the 'long rains' are due to finish about now they seem to be putting in overtime this year just for me. The sky was dark and brooding with showers sweeping in off the lake accompanied by the constant crack and bellicose rumbling of thunder.



Turning left after getting airborne off rwy 17 I had a good view of the airport over the wing - the new airport with all the traffic and the old Entebbe terminal beside it.



It was here that the Isrealis staged their now famous raid. In 1976 German and Palestinian terrorists had seized Air France flight 139, an Airbus A300 from Athens to Rome but originating in Tel Aviv. Initially flown to Benghazi and refuelled it then continued on to Entebbe where more terrorists joined them and they were given sanctuary and aid by General Idi Amins dictatorial government. The terrorists demanded the release of prisoners held by Isreal and several other countries. Although they released all non Jewish passengers, the captain of flight 139 remained as he considered the remaining hostages to still be his responsibility. Brave and Noble - yes, but all it got him was a bollocking and a period of stand down afterwards. Typical management for you!
Anyway, the Israelis flew 4 hercs down at night lowlevel without reference to ground control at all. Members of the IDF and special forces stormed the terminal and eliminated the terrorists. They managed it without loss to themselves but several hostages were killed in cross fire. It was while loading people onto the Hercs that the Ugandans opened fire and the raids leader was killed. One of the Hercs had carried armoured personnel carriers and these were used to destroy 11 ugandan airforce Mig 17's to prevent them from chasing. The aircraft all repositioned to Nairobi in Kenya where another Isreali jet with medical personnel aboard had been prepositioned. There were several films made about it and a very good book.

Levelling off at 5500' I was still only about 1700'agl. Entebbe Airport is at an elevation of 3782'. Visibility was pretty limited, only about 5 to 10 miles and even lower in the showers.



I could barely make out Kampala as I passed. Cutting across the low hills at the northern end of the lake I made my way to Jinja.



This is where Lake Victoria empties and begins it's amazing journey northward as the mighty Nile river.



The area around Jinja has some of the worlds best white water rafting and they even have a 44m bungy over one of the cataracts.
Lake Victoria itself although large in area is fairly shallow at about 80m deep. It had been plagued by water hyacinth which nearly strangled all fish stocks but after a prolonged battle has been brought back under control, but not yet totally eliminated. The area is prolific with snails and mosquitos which mean Bilhazia and malaria are also rife in the area so be careful around the water! To combat the mosquitos they introduced Nile Perch, some of which can grow up to 200kg in size. Great fishing but they have just about eaten out all the other species of fish in the lake as well!
Leaving Uganda behind me I dodged around some more showers and contacted Kisumu tower for transit. Kenya at last!



Kisumu is the third largest city and used to be a thriving port but with the decline of the lake it is now more involved with petrochemical processing. Fuel is transported by pipeline up from the coast at Mombasa, processed and then trucked out to surrounding areas and neighbouring countries.
It was after passing Kisumu that things really started to get interesting. About 40 miles further on was Kericho in the 'western highlands'.



The area is TEA country. Kenya is the worlds 3rd largest producer of tea and it accounts for between 20 and 30% of Kenyas foreign income. The soils around Kericho are rich and with constant good weather and regular afternoon rain it is a prime growing area.
The undulating hills, patchworked by plantations, climb steadily towards the central highlands to the north and east. Of this I was in no doubt! Although climbing consistently I was getting closer and closer to the ground and also the cloudbase.



Just on the point of turning back things evened out somewhat and I found myself cruising along at about 800-1000ft agl dodging showers - at 11,500ft! this is the southern edge of the Central highlands or the 'white highlands' as they became known.



I managed to snatch a glimpse of Lake Naivasha and was barely able to make out the shadowy bulk of the Abadare ranges to the north.



This part of Kenya has arguably the best climate with lower humidity and the temperature not usually above 23 deg C with pleasantly cool nights. I hoped the weather would be better when I came back with Julie in a day or so.



Soon I was descending across the ridges of the Great Rift Valley towards Nairobi. I had to clear customs at Jomo Kenyatta International.





After one go round due traffic I handed over my forms and the requisite amount of money and repositioned over to Wilson Airport. Its the main GA airport. Nairobis equivalent of Ardmore. I have arranged here for 'TGY' to have maintenance and to have the oxygen system upgraded and made fully functional at last. While this happens Julie and I will do the 'tourist thing' in a hired Cessna Caravan we managed to get hold of through family friends that still live here. She arrives tomorrow so I am off into town now to arrange a safe deposit box at the bank. I think you know why.



This leg 309.6nm 2.7 hrs
Total 15291.6nm 105.6 hrs

[chopper_nut]

Would have thought you would have had enough of flying off the beaten track in unfamiliar aircraft by now! Hope your armed this time!!

[towerguy]

Sorry for the delay here - next leg will be out soon.

interesting to see the news about kiwis getting kidnapped in the Niger delta at the moment.

[towerguy]

'Our friend is fine and will see you soon - be careful. rgds Pat.'

Folding the page I slipped the email from pat into my back pocket and headed inside off the viewing balcony. Julies flight had just docked to the airbridge so I made my way toward the arrivals hall. Apart from a few notable exceptions all airports share the same basic characteristics. The busy bustling crowds, the shrieks of excited meet and greeters, the totally incomprehensible speaker announcements and rows of Avis, Hertz and other rent-a-dent car rental agencies squeezed in between cafes and fastfood joints selling food you would normally never touch at three times the usual price!
Wandering up I joined the ranks of glassy eyed zombies all staring at the arrival hall doors and settled in to wait.
Surprisingly enough Julie was one of the first through. We weren't so lucky with the bags though. Yes they were all there but it looked like the Kenya Rugby football team had used them for scrum practice. It was over an hour later before we were in the taxi and heading for the hotel.
Despite the long flights Julie was still totally buzzing. It was the first tiime she had been back to Africa since leaving as a child, and if her head could have done 360's then it would have been, as she tried to take in everything all at once. She remarked on how everything had changed so much but was still able to point out landmarks along the way. I don't know who had the biggest grin on their face, Her, me or the Indian taxi driver!
Over dinner that night she asked how the flight was going and why had I not written more than a few 'weathers nice wish you were here' sort of letters? How come I had lost so much weight and would I like to explain the scars on the face?
"Well... theres a few things I have to tell you..." so I told her all about the crash and getting rescued, skipping over the finer details of shootings and smuggled diamonds and things. I padded it out with details of the scenery, of seeing lake Victoria and the difficulties of flying around the rainy season in Central Africa. I left out everything about Tony and Steve and what was happening there. I figured there was no point in worrying her about that. Besides, I was already 'getting it' for not telling her the full story about the crash and how I had been hurt. I had to promise to be more careful and let her know if anything happened again in future. " yes dear, I promise" I said and left it at that.
Shes pretty quick is our Ju so she knew I'd left something unsaid but she's also quick enough, and been married to me long enough, to know when to let it go.
After a couple of drinks in the house bar Julie headed up to the room as the jetlag was starting to bite. I said I had a couple of calls to make about the aircraft maintenance and would follow shortly. Once she had left I asked the bartender if they had email access in the hotel and was shown into an alcove just off the main foyer.
Steve had left a message saying he'd recieved my message and where should we meet? He'd be in Nairobi in 4 days. That message was 2 days ago.
I sent , 'Lake Nakuru 3 days', and gave directions and my mobile number.
Back in the room Julie asked " No problems?"
"No, just a few things I may have to sort out tomorrow but it shouldn't take too long, and then we can concentrate on sightseeing."
I left her sleeping next morning and headed out to Wilson airport to finish arranging details on TGY's maintenance, sign forms ( read - payout cash bribes ) and get supplies for the Cessna.
Back at the hotel Julie and I headed out into the building heat to collect the rental car.
By that night I was ready to drop dead into bed. It had been a full day. The old family home and neighbourhood of Kileleshwa had been visited and then out to her old school - the Banda preparatory school, on the edge of the Nairobi national park. That had been interesting, hearing the stories about Lions in the playground and about monkeys getting into the classrooms through the windows. We looked for old friends places and saw the corner store that the Whittakers used to own. Their son Roger had gone to the same school as Julies dad. Yes, that Roger Whittaker, the singer.
We'd done shopping and then toured the Railway museum. Julies dad had worked for the E.A.R & H. East African Rail and Harbourboard. We took enough photos to fill a reasonable sized hard drive!
Dinner had been with a family friend that still lived here and now it was nearly midnight. I dropped off to sleep to the gentle soothing sounds of sirens in the night. Nairobbery indeed!
This morning we enjoyed a late leisurely breakfast before picking up a few last minute provisions on the way out to wilson for our short hop over to Naivasha.



The clouds had cleared today and we departed into a Gin clear sky washed clean by the rains.



As a homecoming it would have been hard to have arranged a better day than the one nature was now providing. The atmosphere was so clean that even far distant objects were clear and crisp and appeared only just out of reach.



Mt Kenya was visible to the North rising above the surrounding plains and the Abadare ranges stretched away to the Northwest before us. Sliding toward us, the dark blue of Lake Naivasha contrasted against the surprisingly green floor of the Great Rift Valley that we now crossed.



The vast fields of flowers around Naivasha itself easily visible. It is one of the largest fresh flower growing areas in Africa. It seemed like no time at all before we were on final behind another caravan that had left Wilson before us.





After a short comfort stop and something to drink we decided that as the weather was so good and we had time in hand, we'd do the Mt kenya flight today. Climbing up into the cab of the Caravan is like getting up into a Mac truck , quite a climb but plenty of room - with my bulk I love it. Once airborne we settled into the climb northward toward the Abadare ranges.



Many of Julies parents friends spent time traipsing around these hills as members of the Kenya Regiment during the Mau Mau uprising. The hills are deceptive to look at, only three or four thousand feet high, but Naivasha is at an elevation of 6380' so you are starting out already a mile up! With that in mind we have brought along the portable oxygen! As we crawled our way steadily northward the landscape dropped away below. The forest of the hills spilling out over the plains and gradually thinning before giving way to open pasture and savannah. Eventually Mt Kenyas triple peaks drew near and at 17000' we felt as if we had Africa at our feet.



Distant Ocean, endless plain, great mountains and a forever sky. I could see where they got the saying - " you can take the person out of Africa but you will never take Africa out of the person."



Rocking the wings and waving to a party of climbers approaching the summit we set heading back toward Naivasha. Neither of us saying much, just content to be together and to look.
It's late now and I sit beside the brazier with a drink writing up the diary. Julie nurses a glass of wine while staring out across the lake, some childhood memory running through her minds eye.



The native camp staff have been in and set the camp beds and arranged the mosquito netting. The sun has just gone below the horizon and tomorrow is a full day.
"Come on love, time to call it a day". She just smiles and nods.
I feel so relaxed that I almost manage to put out of my mind the meeting with Steve tomorrow. Almost.





this leg 206nm 2.0 hrs
totals 15497.6nm 107.6 hrs

[G-HEVN]

Sweet.

[Duckman]

Great screenies there! Spot On!

[Kelburn]

great screenies.
You are really showing us what it's like to fly in different parts of the world!

[towerguy]

The dawn chorus of local birds and the reluctant starting of an old diesel truck on the other side of the camp were enough to wake me this morning. The Rift escarpments to the east were fringed light blue with the first hint of dawn, the sky deepening higher up into night where the brighter stars still shone. Lights flickered in Naivasha township and trucks lumbered their way past the grounds taking early workers to the surrounding farms and flower fields.
Putting on a jumper to ward off the morning chill, I was making tea when my cellphone chirped.
'Baboon Pt at 12 cya S'.
'ok cu' I sent back.
After breakfast we packed and had a last walk along the lakefront before getting dropped back to the airstrip. The clear skies promised a lovely day. The early chill had already been replaced by a building dry heat.
Airborne again we circled to look at Hells Gate National Park south of the lake.



It's a geothermal area and game park that you can walk and ride through amongst the wildlife. Take care to keep a good look out though!




Passing Lake Naivasha again.

As it was only a short hop over to Lake Nakuru we flew low at 1500 feet above the terrain. Below us farmhouses and scattered villages flashed by. Their round walls and thatched roofs grouped amongst the trees, surrounded by fields and livestock enclosures.
As advised by the pilots at Naivasha, we circled Lake Nakuru keeping the shoreline a good couple of miles off the left wing. 'keep a good lookout for birds' they'd warned us.



Passing over the dusty grid of streets making up Nakuru township I wondered if Steve was already down there somewhere. I hoped so. Along the western shore I could make out Baboon cliffs in the distance and the finger of Pelican point jutting out into the lake.



We are staying at the 'Nakuru Banda House' about 5nm south of the lake and the airstrip is right beside it. After a quick low pass to check for animals and other obstructions we were soon down and taxiing back to the shelter.



Helping us put our bags into the back of the landrover the ever smiling driver drove us the whole way to the accomodations - all 300 meters of it. We had said we'd walk but that wasn't allowed."No No. Simba! we drive!" end of conversation.(Lions!)



We spent half an hour packing away our bags and storing the provisions. It's a self catering cottage so we could come and go as we pleased. the hired landrover outside had a full tank of gas and was ours for 24 hours.
Driving toward the lake I explained to Ju how a friend from my Australian days had contacted me. He was going to be in Africa about the same time and we had arranged to meet up if we could. It turned out that he was here in Nakuru. We would meet for lunch at the picnic site near Baboon cliff.
Steve hadn't changed much over the years. Oh the hair was a bit shorter and sported grey flecks around the edges and the tan looked a permanent feature that hinted at a life in a warm climate. He still looked in need of a good meal though. And that grin! It was infectious, making those around him want to grin as well. Knowing Steve as I did, all it did was make me want to check that my watch and wallet were still there. His magic with the ladies hadn't diminished either. Within minutes of being introduced he and Ju were chatting away like old school friends. Unfortunately they were mainly swapping stories about yours truly! "Come on you two, time for some lunch", that might give their jaws something else to do.

"Cripes mate, you don't half believe in jumping in the deep end do ya?!" I'd just finished telling Steve the full unvarnished story. Even as I spoke it sounded unbelievable. It was like telling him about the latest novel I'd read, only this time the main characters were real flesh and blood and liable to be in deep 'shtook' if things went really badly.
Shrugging I replied "well if you're going to do something you should try and do it well." That made him laugh. "yeah well, now you've got in, how do we go about getting you out?"
I noted his use of 'we'.
"Thats why I thought of you right away. You remember you told me about your Dad working in Amsterdam and some of the contacts you had ..."
"yeah" he replied nodding thoughtfully.
"Well I thought maybe there was someone you, or your Dad, knew that could arrange a good price without too many questions being asked?"
Steve sat quietly looking out over the lake taking in the view but without really seeing it. Maybe I was presuming too much on an old friendship. It had been quite a while ago after all. Below us half a million pink flamingos waded the shallows scooping up algae while on the shore a group of warthogs frolicked in a muddy wallow unconcerned by a nearby herd of wildebeest. Julie was over by the viewing platform taking photos of the wildlife while we talked.
"There may be someone I could talk to but I'd have to go back to Europe" he said. I wasn't sure if he was speaking to me or not, his look and his voice were somewhere several thousand miles north of us.
"I'd have to use.. and if he was still... unless... no thats okay..."
Finally turning back to me he tilted back his Akubra and swigged from his waterbottle. "Look I'm not going to promise anything straight up. I have to talk to a few people - no names mind - and see what can be done. Do you have the things with you?"
"No" I replied "They're in a safe deposit in Nairobi, I didn't want to cart them around in the bush".
Looking me in the eye he asked "Okay, do you trust me enough to take them and get them appraised and see what we're dealing with here?"
He was a self confessed thief, con artist, swindler and fugitive from both sides of the law. Did I trust him? "Hell yes! I wouldn't have called you otherwise mate". Taking out a spiral notepad from the camera bag I wrote out the password and access instructions to the safe deposit box. "I already named you as joint access with the bank and the other two numbers are accounts in Switzerland and the Caymans respectively. Use them as you need them."
Sitting forward with his elbows on his knees and his chin cupped in his hands he slowly turned his head and looked at me. "Been doing a bit of thinking ahead as well eh? Well thats what you was always good at and it helped keep me alive a couple of times".
"Just be careful Steve" I said. I knew Europe was not somewhere he'd wanted to go back to. "Just watch your back".
"Does Julie know about any of this?" he asked.
"No, I don't want her worrying about it".
"okay".
"You can just say no and walk away mate, I'm not going to force you into this". I thought I'd better put the option out there even though I knew he already knew it.
"Nah" he replied "I'm so sick of fighting off spoiled American Heiresses travelling with 'Grand ma ma" on diving and sailing trips, you wouldn't believe. And the 'Grand ma ma's' are the worst of the lot! This will make a change and I'd kind of like to see the olds again at least once more".
Rising and shaking hands on our renewed partnership, Steve gathered his things to leave. "Are you heading off Steve?" called Julie.
"Yeah things to do, places to see, people to meet. You know, usual story, but it was nice to meet you".
"You must come and see us when we get back to New Zealand".
"Yeah I'd like that, and look after this great galah would you. Damned fool will end up getting himself shot down one of these days ... oh, thats right he's already been there done that hasn't he!"
Wincing I slapped him on the back. "Thanks mate! see ya round".
Laughing, Steve headed off down the track back towards town. "Keep in touch!" I called after him. Raising one arm in salute he called " I'll email you" and then disappeared behind some trees and was gone. I hoped it wasn't another 25 years before I saw him again.
"He seemed really nice" said Julie. I looked sideways at her "Yeah he comes across that way". Particularly if they're female I thought.
Still, If anyone could do something about this mess, Steve was my best chance.






This Leg 95nm 1.1 hrs
Totals 15592.6nm 108.7hrs

[towerguy]

"Nakuru traffic Cesssna caravan Nxxxxx rolling rwy 36 at Naishi departing VFR to the southwest".
Easing on the power I gave the instruments a last check and released the brakes. The red earth strip blurred beneath us as we accelerated."
"Aborting" I cried as I pulled power off and applied the brakes, barely ahead of Julies cry of "Look at that!"
Coming to rest well down the strip we both sat and stared open mouthed at the spectacle ahead of us. Countless thousands of birds spread over us from the north. A seething pink avalanche of Flamingoes interspersed with enormous flocks of Pelican and other wildfowl. Startled by a predator or some other disturbance at the lake, the birds had taken to the safety of the air and now spread across our departure path in a cloud so large it spread a shadow across the countryside below. Another minute or two and things would have been interesting on the climb out to say the least.



As we turned about to backtrack we laughed as a family of warthogs, mother and three young, trotted off into the long grass, ramrod straight tales erect and noses held aloft, indignant that we should dare to disturb their frollocking.
Lined up again we sat and waited while the aerial ballet above us continued to play. "Isn't it amazing how they never seem to bump into each other" said Julie. "Yeah, kinda makes controllers redundant doesn't it?" I replied. "Ha Ha" was all I got back.
It took nearly fifteen minutes before the last of the stragglers were heading back north over the tops of the acacia trees and we could continue.

That was nearly two weeks ago now. Two weeks that I will never forget.
July and August are the best months to catch the annual Wildebeest migration. Millions of animals all on the move seeking better pasture to the north. It is one of natures truly spectacular and awe inspiring displays.


Leaving nakuru

It was a short hop over the hills to the Maasai Mara National Reserve on the northern edge of the Serengeti plains. We did a quick loop out over the park and could see great dark swathes of animals flowing across the landscape.



Among the Wildebeest, sizeable herds of Zebra, Antelope and tourist buses also jockied for space. Along the edges predators such as Lion and Cheetah could be seen hunting. The whole spectacle was overseen by Giraffe gliding slowly along seemingly above it all.


Final at Mara

We had three days at the Mara Serena Lodge. It is a popular, and at this time of the year, crowded resort but there is good reason for it. The resort is built in the style of a Maasai village to blend into the surroundings. Situated on a ridge overlooking the plains below, fantastic viewing is to be had right from your balcony, and first class service to go with it. Morning Safaris are organised and you are back in time for lunch. Drinks and dinner on the balcony with background sunsets to die for. If I could just find the volume knob on the strident elderly American Tourists that abound in numbers rivalling the wildebeest, then this place would be paradise perfect.
The airstrip was just up the road so I was able to keep a check on the aircraft each day. There have been a number of cases of fuel theft and we had been warned to keep a close eye out and to always double check and 'dip' tanks before each flight.

From the Maasai Mara we flew down into Tanzania next. Despite the crowds we had to see the NgoroNgoro crater high above the Serengeti plains. The 'Caldera' or crater is the remnant of a volcano that collapsed nearly two and a half million years ago. 19km across, it is nearly 600m deep, encloses about 300 square km and is home to nearly 30,000 animals. The wildlife viewing is amongst the best anywhere in the world, but it was a little dissappointing when trying to line up that 'special' shot only to have another mini bus drive in front of the camera!

Leaving NgoroNgoro behind we headed east again, crossing numerous lakes and miles and miles of acacia dotted savannah.



Ahead, Mt Kilimanjaro loomed, growing steadily above the horizon. It's bulk overshadowing the surrounding plains and its ring of rainforest. The permanent cap of snow and ice reflecting the bright African sun like a lighthouse beacon.
Southwest of 'Kili' we overflew Arusha National Park containing Mt Meru, Tanzanias second highest mountain, set amongst tropical rainforest. It's nearby alkaline lakes were covered pink with flamingo. Surrounding the park are farms and fields of wheat stretching for miles growing on the rich volcanic soils.



From there we flew around the eastern flank of Kilimanjaro. Below us parties of climbers made their slow ascents. The radio chatter was quite lively on local, several charter outfits all making the most of 'high season' with flights running constantly to and from the nearby International airport and also from further afield.



As the mountain slowly slid past the left wing we lined up for a long straight in approach to the strip at Amboseli National park just over the border in Kenya. Following in number three to a C206 and a twin otter we were soon on the ground again and arranging transport to our hotel.
Tortillis camp is one of the real finds of the tour so far. An exclusive 'ecolodge', it sits up on a ridge overlooking the savannah below with the backdrop of Kilimanjaro behind. Photos taken from your room match anything I have seen in guide books. Just stunning. The whole place is run on solar power and is designed to be eco-friendly. You do pay top dollar but it's worth it! The price included guided walks and wildlife drives which we took full advantage of. The camps name is from the 'Acacia Tortillis', the trees that surround the camp. The luxury tents are set up amongst them.
Three days of luxury and relaxation, life is hard but I suppose someone has to do it.
Having finally seen and photographed our fill of Lion and Antelope, Wildebeest and Warthog, Rhino and Elephant we were ready to move on again and so it was off to Mombasa on the coast.



Mombasa is a 'must see' stopover on any trip to this part of the world. It is the largest port on the African east coast and is the railhead for the Ugandan railway that runs all the way to Kampala. It is the supply line for most of central Africa and recieves their goods for export. It has been a major trading post for centuries and been fought over and traded hands dozens of times before ending up with the British and eventually Kenya at independence. As such it has a varied mix of architectural styles, peoples and languages. It is mostly African but with large communities of Indians and expats. The predominant language being Swahili. It was also 'home' to Julies mother.





We spent a couple of days sightseeing, walking the markets, touring Fort Jesus and it's impressive walls and touring the 'old town' with it's narrow twisting streets and alleys. Another few days were spent driving up to stay at Vipingo beach north of the city. It's the beaches that Julie has really missed about Africa. The fine talcum powder white sands, clear waters, blue skies and, I think, the freedom of being a kid with nothing else to do or worry about other than enjoying it all.


Abeam vipingo beach but no sigh of the miles of beach and tourist blocks


approaching Malindi



We are now at Malindi, about 20 miles or so further up the coast, staying with an old family friend. Despite looking at other places and the political upheavals in Africa he has returned and will never leave. "It's home" he says. Looking out from the porch across the white sand, cold Tusker beer in hand, watching a fishing dhow work its way slowly down the coast, white sail glowing gold against the deepening evening sky, I can't say that I blame him.

Checking my email before bed I found a couple regarding maintenance on 'TGY'. The work is mostly completed with just a test flight and any tweaking left to do. The kids back home are all okay and 'please send money'- good to know that some things never change. About 200 spam junk mails and two messages from Steve.
The first saying that he was in London and would be heading over to the continent shortly to meet a few people he had contacted. The second to say that things were progressing nicely and he hoped to have more details in a day or two, but in the mean time could I double check that number I had given him for Mike? It went through but he'd leave it to me to try out and see what I made of it.
I must have written it down by mistake on something I'd given him. Puzzled, I pulled out the card and dialled.
After a moment and several clicks I could hear it ring once at the other end before it was answered. A recorded female American accent intoned ..."Treasury special investigations division, at the tone please leave the name of the person you wish to contact and your contact details. Your call will be returned as soon as possible. Thank you."
I didn't wait for the tone. I hung up straight away. 'Holy shitbags batman' I thought 'what did this mean? nothing good thats for sure. Oh craaaap!'






These legs 305nm 3.2 hrs
Totals 15897.6nm 111.9 hrs

[Alex]

Still very nice pictures, great to see your progress.

Alex

[G-HEVN]

I was just wondering where you were getting to... Good stuff!

[towerguy]

more coming shortly - school holidays finnish end of this week so I get my computer back from the kids!

[towerguy]

After exhausting every restaurant and having seemingly lazed our way across every beach on the east coast, we were again on our way.
Final farewells to friends made, we taxied out under a lovely clear late morning sky. Julie did the radio work while I taxied and took care of the checks. A light northerly dictated a departure off rwy32 and having got clearance we made an early right turn for a last look over the beaches before setting heading overhead direct to Wilson in Nairobi.
Julie was pretty quiet during the departure and climbout, trying to capture it all in memory "“ and on film. Although disappointed in the spread of commercialisation along the coast she'd still found the white sand and blue skies of her childhood. Myself, all I could think of was that each turn of the prop took me that much closer to trouble. Where and in what form it would come I no longer had any real idea. I felt badly on the back foot and had to find a way to regain control again.
"Penny for them' said Julie
"Umm "“ what's that?'
"Penny for your thoughts "“ you haven't said a word since we got airborne.'
"You won't get rich on them' I replied trying to sound off hand "Just mulling over flight plans and figures for the baron'
"Sure' she said
Even through the headset I could hear and feel everything she'd put into that one word.
"Look you know how I get when something new comes up "“ I just want to be sure about the changes to the aircraft before heading onwards. Have you checked your tickets and passport?' I said trying desperately to change the subject. "There'll only be a few hours to get across to Jomo Kenyatta International for your flight.'
"Yes, only about twenty times, and I'll be getting the return tickets once I'm in London.'
We'd decided for Julie to join me later on the homeward leg but first she'd be visiting friends in England and family in Scotland.
"Excellent "“ hey get the camera ready, there's Kilimanjaro again and we're just coming up on Tsavo National Park "“ you could get a few decent shots.'



Back on neutral ground we spent the rest of the leg talking about photography and animals until it was time to contact Nairobi centre for our descent.
With ATC approval we crossed the extended centreline from Jomo Kenyatta to join straight in for Wilson. Slotting in number two to a DC3 we landed and taxied in to the hangars.



No one was in the office but there was a note from my old friend Bruce saying to leave the documents in the top drawer of his desk and he'd get them later "“ he was out flying at the moment. Doing as he'd asked I also scrawled a quick reply telling him I'd see him in the morning.
We transferred my bags over to TGY while we waited for the taxi. With only a couple of hours we hurried over to Jomo and got Julie checked in at the BA counter and only had time for a quick drink before she was whisked away.
She was only just gone and I missed her already. Still, it was better that she was out of the way for a while. Safer anyway. Safer for her and it gave me some peace of mind.
At Wilson next morning Bruce had all the paperwork ready. He'd already done the inspection of the Caravan to confirm it was still in good order and I thanked him for the lease. The paperwork only took about half an hour but it was another hour of shooting the breeze about the trip and catching up on past friends before I walked out to TGY. Giving her a thorough walk around Bruce pointed out the various changes.



Satisfied, we climbed aboard and taxied out for some upper air work. Climbing out overhead the field Bruce threw in some asymmetric work just to keep me on my toes. Contacting the centre we climbed out northward toward Mt Kenya and up to FL160. Bruce gave me a good run down on the oxygen system and its operation and made sure I still knew my stuff from our Air force upper air course. Finding no problems we headed back and joined the queue into Wilson.
With the final forms signed off and the bill covered I made my farewells and headed back to town. It was a bit late in the day so I decided to push on tomorrow.
Steve's email had come in while we were flying. "Things going better than expected, progress as per your instructions. Meet me at the following address in 3 days. Regards S.' There was an address that looked like a bar or café in Addis Ababa. Well it wasn't on the original flight plan but it looked as though I was going to Ethiopia as well. I now had three days to kill so set about planning and checking on visa requirements etc and maybe a stopover along the way. That's when I found that the charts in my flight bag were not in the same order that I'd left them last night.



legs
this leg 227.3 + 152.2= 379.5 2.0hrs + 1.1 hrs = 3.1 hrs
totals 16277.1nm 115.0 hrs

[Naki]

Welcome back TGY!